Visiting Applecross & Torridon in Autumn and Winter

If you picture Scotland in autumn or winter, you probably think of wind, rain, and cold days. But for anyone who loves hiking, quiet roads, and time in nature, this season can be one of the best times to visit.

Visiting the Applecross Peninsula and Torridon feel completely different once the summer crowds leave. You’ll find empty trails, peaceful views, and a slower pace, as long as you’re ready to plan ahead, dress warm, and be a bit self-sufficient.

Here’s how to make the most of your trip.

Why Visit in the Colder Months

Autumn and winter bring a slower, quieter time to the Highlands. Days are shorter and the weather can shift quickly, but with fewer visitors, the experience can feel more personal.

Key reasons to visit:

• Fewer crowds: You’ll often have viewpoints, beaches, and hiking trails entirely to yourself.

• Striking scenery: Low winter sun creates golden light and long shadows, while early frosts and snow change the whole landscape.

• Lower costs and more availability: Accommodation is easier to find, and some properties offer off-season rates.

• Wildlife and atmosphere: Deer, otters, seals, and winter birds are more visible when the landscape is quiet.

It’s important to understand that not everything is open year-round. Some cafés, B&Bs, and tourist sites close from November to March. Planning and being flexible are essential.

Getting There and Around

The drive into Applecross or Torridon is part of the adventure. In summer, it’s busy. In winter, it can feel like you have the road to yourself.

The famous Bealach na Bà, or “Pass of the Cattle”, climbs steeply through hairpin bends to over 2,000 feet before descending to Applecross village. It’s one of Scotland’s most scenic roads, but it can be closed or icy during winter. If it’s shut, use the alternative coastal route via Shieldaig and Ardheslaig, which offers equally impressive sea views.

Travel tips:

• Drive cautiously; single-track roads can be icy and narrow.

• Check weather and road conditions daily.

• Fill up on fuel whenever you can, with stations in Lochcarron, Applecross, and Kinlochewe

• Pack essentials like warm layers, snacks, and a torch in case of delays.

There is limited public transport, so a car is the most practical way to explore. The quiet roads in winter make driving less stressful, provided you’re prepared.

Where to Stay

Accommodation options are smaller and more personal in the off-season, but not at all impossible.

Popular bases:

• Applecross Village: Home to the well-known Applecross Inn (check winter opening hours), self-catering cottages, and sea views across to Raasay and Skye.

• Torridon: A favourite for walkers and climbers, with quick access to trailheads, a hotel and inn, and a small village store.

• Kinlochewe: A convenient base for exploring Glen Torridon or Beinn Eighe. There’s a hotel, bunkhouse, campsite (seasonal), and small shop.

• Gairloch: Larger than the others, with multiple hotels, B&Bs, and cafés that stay open longer into the season. It’s also a great option if you want to include beaches or short coastal walks.

Many visitors prefer self-catering cottages in the colder months, with kitchens and wood-burning stoves. If you plan to camp, ensure your gear is rated for winter conditions. Campsites may close after October, so wild camping is best left to those with experience and the right equipment.

What to Pack

The weather here changes fast, so the right gear makes all the difference.

Essentials:

• Waterproof jacket and trousers

• Insulating layers (fleece or down)

• Hat, gloves, and scarf

• Waterproof boots with grip

• Headtorch and spare batteries

• Paper map and compass

• Flask for hot drinks and high-energy snacks

If you’re heading into the hills, bring microspikes or crampons and be ready to turn back if the weather worsens. Always keep a spare set of dry clothes in the car.

Best Walks and Scenic Routes

The beauty of Wester Ross is how easily accessible its landscapes are. You don’t need multi-day hikes to enjoy the views, just good footwear, a flexible plan, and a sense of adventure.

Around Applecross

• Applecross Bay & Sand Beach: A peaceful coastal walk with wide views and plenty of wildlife.

• Beinn Bhàn: A challenging hike with exceptional views of Skye on a clear day.

• Toscaig Loop: A quiet coastal road perfect for a short drive or gentle walk.

Find more village walks here. 

Around Torridon and Kinlochewe

• Loch Clair & Glen Torridon: One of the most photogenic walks in Scotland, with reflections of Liathach and Beinn Eighe.

• Coire Dubh & Coire Mhic Nobuil: Moderate routes that offer classic Torridon views without technical terrain.

• Beinn Eighe Nature Reserve: Managed trails with boardwalk sections and viewpoints ideal for winter days.

• Kinlochewe to Loch Maree: A scenic drive with several short walking options and picnic spots.

Around Gairloch

• Red Point Beach: A windswept but beautiful walk with views across to the Outer Hebrides.

• Flowerdale Glen: A waterfall walk starting near Gairloch Harbour, easy to follow and ideal for low-light afternoons.

• Rua Reidh Lighthouse: Reachable by a rough coastal road, perfect for storm watching on wild days.

Food and Supplies

Dining options reduce in winter, so a bit of planning goes a long way.

• The Applecross Inn serves excellent seafood, warming soups, locally-sourced venison, and lots more with a great whisky & gin selection and delicious local ice cream.

• In Torridon, The Torridon Hotel offers quality dining, and there’s a small general store for basics.

• Kinlochewe has a shop and fuel stop open most of the year, a good resupply point before venturing deeper into Glen Torridon.

• Gairloch offers the most choice, with year-round grocery shops, takeaway options, and a few restaurants that stay open into winter.

If you’re self-catering, stock up in Inverness, Gairloch, Kinlochewe, or Lochcarron. Bring enough for at least one extra day in case the weather affects travel.

Photography and Light

Autumn and winter light in Wester Ross is among the best in the Highlands. 

Autumn colours last into November, while frost and snow transform the mountains into monochrome shapes. Mist often lingers in the glens, and after dark, the lack of light pollution makes it a great spot for stargazing or even catching the northern lights.

Keep your camera gear protected from moisture and carry spare batteries; cold drains them quickly.

Staying Safe

This is a remote region, and preparation matters.

• Check the mountain and weather forecast before each walk.

• Let someone know where you’re going and when you’ll return.

• Carry extra layers, food, and a power bank.

• Avoid high summits if snow or strong winds are forecast.

The mountains will always be there another day; safety should come first.

When to Visit

• Autumn (September–November): Milder weather, rich colours, and open facilities.

• Winter (December–February): Quiet, atmospheric, and ideal for photography. Expect short days and colder conditions, but just as stunning landscapes.

• Early Spring (March–April): Increasing daylight, facilities re-opening around easter. 

Final Thoughts

Exploring Applecross, Torridon, Kinlochewe, and Gairloch in the off-season gives you a completely different perspective on the Highlands.

You trade long summer days for quiet roads and crisp air. You might need to plan more carefully, but what you gain, the sense of space, the light, the solitude, makes it unforgettable.

For couples who enjoy slow travel, walking, and a bit of adventure, this region in autumn and winter is as authentic as Scotland gets. Pack well, plan flexibly, and let the weather set the pace.

Because in Wester Ross, even a cloudy day feels like a story worth telling.